Madeira and a car. For many people, these two things simply seem to belong together.

And yes—if you want to travel around the whole island in a week, stop at hidden viewpoints, and decide each morning where to go depending on where the sun happens to be shining, a car gives you a freedom that no bus can fully replace.

But what if you do not want to drive? Or perhaps you only want to rent a car for a few days?

Does it make sense to stay in Madeira without a car?

If you choose Funchal as your base, my answer is: yes. And you may be surprised by how much you can experience on foot or with the help of local buses.

Even from the airport, the Aerobus takes you directly to the centre of Funchal. You will find the bus stop just outside the arrivals hall.

And because my two small MadeiraDream Monte apartments are located in Monte, above Funchal, let us take a look at what a holiday in Madeira without a car could actually look like.

Start with Funchal. On foot.
Funchal is not a city you need to “tick off” a list. I much prefer discovering it gradually.

You could start at Mercado dos Lavradores, the famous farmers’ market. From there, continue into the old town—Zona Velha—where ordinary doors have been transformed into one large open-air gallery through the Arte de Portas Abertas project.

Walk on towards the yellow Forte de São Tiago, where you will find the small hidden Santiago bar and a little pebble beach with showers nearby. Incidentally, it is also a lovely place for snorkelling.

From there, you can continue as far as the Barreirinha bathing complex.

Later, return to the city centre and Sé Cathedral, stroll along Avenida Arriaga, stop in Jardim Municipal and continue to Santa Catarina Park, which offers a beautiful view over Funchal’s harbour and bay.

And if you would like to add the taste of Madeira to your walk, visit Blandy’s Wine Lodge and discover that Madeira is not only the name of the island.

All these places are within walking distance, and many of them are also listed by the local public transport company as attractions accessible by public transport.
Horários do Funchal

Another side of Funchal: towards the ocean
I would save the western part of the city for another day.

Start at Lido, follow the coastal promenade to the natural pools at Doca do Cavacas, and then continue to Praia Formosa.

And if your legs are still happy to keep going, you can walk further towards Câmara de Lobos.

This is one of my favourite walks in Funchal. You gradually leave the city behind, follow the ocean and suddenly find yourself in a small fishing bay with a completely different atmosphere.

The promenade between Funchal and Câmara de Lobos is also recommended by the local public transport operator as one of the walking routes that can easily be combined with public transport.
Horários do Funchal

And then go up. To Monte.
Monte is still part of Funchal. And yet, it feels as though you have arrived somewhere completely different.

Here you will find Monte Palace Madeira – Tropical Garden, the Church of Our Lady of Monte, the municipal park and, of course, the famous wicker toboggans known as Carreiros do Monte.

The cable car will take you from Funchal’s historic centre up to Monte in approximately 15 minutes. Another cable car connects Monte with the Botanical Garden, and the ride itself offers beautiful views across the green hillsides above Funchal.

And this is where you will also find my two small MadeiraDream Monte apartments—in the lower part of Monte, almost at the end of the Carreiros do Monte route.

They are far enough from the busy city centre for you to sit peacefully on the terrace in the evening, looking down at the lights of Funchal with a glass of wine and nowhere you need to rush to.

At the same time, they are close enough for you to explore Funchal and part of the island without a car.

In the morning, you may be woken by a rooster, while sheep, goats or chickens can sometimes be heard in the neighbourhood. For a moment, you may almost forget that you are still in Funchal.

MadeiraDream Monte offers two separate apartments accommodating up to six guests in total. They can be booked separately or together.

But let us continue, because you may be surprised to learn that you can also travel directly from Funchal into the mountains by bus.

Where can you go hiking from Funchal by bus?
Curral das Freiras – a valley hidden among the mountains
For me, this is one of the easiest and at the same time most beautiful day trips.

Bus 181 travels directly from Funchal to Curral das Freiras. This is the current number of the former bus route 81.
SIGA Madeira

The bus journey alone is worth the trip. You gradually leave the city behind and travel between high mountain walls into one of Madeira’s most dramatic valleys.

Once you arrive in Curral das Freiras, you can simply explore the village and its surroundings and enjoy a peaceful day in the mountains. Alternatively, you can choose a more challenging hike.

One option is PR2 Vereda do Urzal, which begins in Curral das Freiras. However, you need to know that this is a linear mountain trail that continues across the mountains towards Lombo do Urzal and Boaventura.

You therefore need to plan your return journey in advance and always check the current status of the trail before setting out.
Horários do Funchal

If you prefer an uncomplicated day without difficult transport arrangements, I would recommend visiting Curral das Freiras and taking a shorter walk around the valley instead.

Ribeiro Frio and Balcões – plenty of nature without too many kilometres
My next suggestion is Ribeiro Frio.

This is one of those places where Madeira changes within moments. Instead of palm trees and the ocean, you suddenly find yourself surrounded by humid laurel forest, ferns and mountains—and a completely different atmosphere.

Buses travelling from Funchal towards the north of the island pass through Ribeiro Frio. It is also the starting point of one of Madeira’s easiest official walking trails: PR11 Vereda dos Balcões.

I sometimes call it:

The hike for a day when you want plenty of Madeira without walking too many kilometres.

At the end of the trail, the Balcões viewpoint overlooks a deep green valley. In good weather, you can also see some of Madeira’s highest peaks.

PR11 is currently listed among the island’s open official trails. However, I always recommend checking both the latest trail status and your bus connections there and back before travelling—especially at weekends and on public holidays.
IFCN Madeira

Camacha – step off the bus and head towards a levada
Camacha is another excellent choice if you are exploring Madeira without a car.

Direct bus 625, formerly route 129, connects Funchal with Camacha.
SIGA Madeira

In this area, you can walk along parts of Levada dos Tornos or Levada da Serra do Faial.

What I like about this trip is its simplicity:

You board a bus in Funchal, get off near a levada and start walking.

Not every day trip needs to be a major expedition to one of the island’s highest peaks.

Sometimes the peaceful levadas winding between eucalyptus trees, gardens and small villages are the part of Madeira you remember most. And the views are fantastic.

Santo da Serra – for a peaceful day in nature
You can also travel directly from Funchal to Santo da Serra without changing buses.

The current route is 651, formerly route 77. It travels from Funchal through Camacha to Santo da Serra.
SIGA Madeira

Here, I would not necessarily plan an ambitious official PR hike.

Instead, enjoy a slower day exploring the village, the park, the surrounding roads, levadas and the green countryside of eastern Madeira.

And if you visit on a Sunday, Santo da Serra has a completely different atmosphere thanks to its local market.

You may also meet quite a few Czech people here.

What about Pico do Areeiro without a car?
Yes. You can now even travel from Funchal to Pico do Areeiro by public transport.

Horários do Funchal operates a special service between the centre of Funchal and Pico do Areeiro, with a connecting shuttle on the upper part of the route.

According to the summer 2026 timetable, buses leave the city centre at 6:00 am and 1:30 pm, returning from Pico do Areeiro at 12:15 pm and 7:00 pm. During the winter season, the final return service departs at 6:00 pm.
Horários do Funchal – Pico do Areeiro service

And there is one particularly useful detail for guests staying at MadeiraDream Monte:

The service also stops in Monte at Largo da Fonte.

You can see the public transport route from MadeiraDream Monte to the special Pico do Areeiro service on Google Maps.

Alternatively, it is approximately a 28-minute walk uphill.

This means that you do not need to travel down into central Funchal first, only to head back up into the mountains again.

Please remember that this is not an ordinary city bus route but a special service.

And when visiting Pico do Areeiro, it is particularly important to check the weather, the current status of accessible walking trails and any reservation requirements before travelling.

The transport operator may cancel the service because of unsuitable weather conditions or the closure of the access road. 
https://www.horariosdofunchal.pt/index.php/viajar/pico-do-areeiro

Bus route numbers and timetables may change.

Before every trip, I recommend checking the latest connections through SIGA Madeira or directly with Horários do Funchal.

The same applies to the official PR walking trails. Since 2026, a new booking and payment system has applied to Madeira’s classified hiking routes.

Check whether your chosen trail requires advance booking and registration:
Book an official Madeira hiking trail

You can check the latest status of Madeira’s official walking trails here:
Current status of recommended hiking trails

What could 5–7 days in Madeira without a car look like?
Of course, you do not need to follow a strict day-by-day itinerary.

Madeira has one particular quality that you learn to respect quite quickly:

Sometimes the weather makes the decision for you.

But as inspiration, your week could look something like this:

Day 1 – Funchal on foot: Mercado dos Lavradores → Zona Velha → city centre → Santa Catarina Park → evening in Monte.

Day 2 – Monte: Monte Palace → Church of Our Lady of Monte → Carreiros do Monte → Botanical Garden.

Day 3 – Ribeiro Frio: Bus into the mountains → PR11 Balcões → return to Funchal.

Day 4 – A day by the ocean: Lido → Doca do Cavacas → Praia Formosa → walk towards Câmara de Lobos.

Day 5 – Curral das Freiras: Direct bus into the valley → a walk chosen according to your fitness level and the weather.

Day 6 – Camacha: Bus to Camacha → levada walk and a peaceful day in nature.

Day 7 – depending on the weather and your mood: Pico do Areeiro, Santo da Serra, another day in Funchal…

…or simply nothing at all.

A morning coffee. A book. An ocean view.

Lunch at the nearby Ó Rústico restaurant, just 300 metres from the MadeiraDream Monte apartments, where you can watch the Carreiros passing by.

And in the evening, a glass of wine on the terrace above the lights of Funchal.

Because this, too, is Madeira.

MadeiraDream Monte – your base above Funchal
If you would like to discover Madeira at a slightly slower pace, combining the city, the ocean and trips into the mountains—and you do not feel the need to have a car parked outside your door every day—MadeiraDream Monte could be a lovely base for your stay.

These are two small but cosy apartments in a peaceful residential part of Monte. They share a large terrace overlooking Funchal and the ocean.

The city centre is only a few minutes away by car or bus, and the nearest bus stop is approximately a three-minute walk from the apartments.

And because I live in Madeira myself, I will also be happy to recommend some of my favourite places during your stay—depending on the weather, your plans and whether you would like to see Madeira’s famous sights or occasionally venture a little beyond its most frequently travelled paths.

Discover MadeiraDream Monte, view the photographs, check prices and find out about availability:

→ MadeiraDream Monte – two apartments above Funchal

You may discover that you do not need car keys in your hand every day to experience Madeira.

Sometimes, all you need is a good pair of walking shoes, a bus…and the desire to set off into the unknown.

I look forward to welcoming you!

Monika